06/11/2004
Pokhara, Pokhara, Pokhara - so good they should name it thrice. What a relief to be back to good food, hot showers and TV - civilisation the Western way.

Pokhara
We chucked all our stinky clothing in the wash and we had to go out and buy clothes as we had nothing clean to wear (we didn't wander around naked until we found outfits we liked however). We had a lovely cooked breakfast at Mike's by the lake while watching buffalo go for their morning swim, then checked into a good hotel called 'Snowlands', which at US$12 per night was very comfy and central Lakeside too.

In total we spent 5 nights in Pokhara, feeding ourselves up on fried breakfasts, tuna sandwiches, German cakes and pastries, and plenty of curries.

Andrew bought a blue stripy top and had some hemp trousers tailored to fit. Zoe purchased a 100% pashmina shawl, not that we know how to tell it is really is 100% pashmina.

It is still very quiet here; on our first night we celebrated the end of our trek with a few beers, we found a live band and were getting pretty merry when everything closed up at midnight - all shutters down. Not really party central.

In terms of activities, Richard being employed could afford an hour long  powered hang glider flight into the mountains - to Andrew's jealousy! We managed to row a boat on the lake for an hour, but mostly it's been shopping, eating and sleeping.

Royal Chitwan National Park
We purchased a 2 night 3 day package deal for US$50 each, and with hindsight we would have gone independently and found better accommodation once we got there. mmm...getting there, well that's all part of the 'adventure' experience. It took 7 hours to travel about 150km, and was advertised as taking only about 4 hours. The road was terrible and many bends had been washed away from landslides over the past few months.

We arrived at Chitwan tired, sweaty and starving. Our hotel - Tiger Wildlife Camp, was very basic, like tea houses on the trek, but as part of the package all our meals and activities were included. We also got very special attention as we were the only guests at the camp.

In the afternoon that we arrived, we were given a tour of the village (we were staying just outside the National Park as it costs a lot to stay inside) and we were treated to an introduction to the local baby rhino. The baby is 3 years old and wanders the streets of the village, much to the amusement of tourists. It was saved from poachers by local soldiers, but unfortunately it's mother was killed.

After a big dinner we went to see a cultural show in the local hall. Lots of men dancing with wooden sticks, and then flaming sticks, it was fast and energetic. One dance involved a guy dressed is a peacock outfit strutting around the stage which was very amusing. Richard also got up on stage at the end of the show and joined in the dancing.

Our second day was very busy. We started at 6:45am with a trip down the river in a dugout canoe, and then a jungle walk back to the start. On the walk we saw wild boar, monkeys and deer. In 2 hours you can only reach the fringes of the park, and the more interesting animals such as wild elephants, sloth bears and tigers are hiding in the depths of the jungle. We were quite glad we didn't encounter anything too big, as our guide was only armed with a stick, and we were told to either run behind or up a tree if charged by a rhino!

At lunch time Richard and Andrew went for a bath with the elephants in the river. Anyone could join in, you climbed up the elephants trunk onto their back, they would would then soak you and shake their shoulders until the passengers fell off. Zoe stayed dry and was cameraperson. Richard and Andrew both agree it was the highlight of the Chitwan trip.

In the afternoon we went on an uncomfortable but entertaining elephant ride for 3 hours. Uncomfortable as the seating was rock hard and maybe fits 4 slim Nepalese, but not 4 Westerners, plus elephants are not known for a smooth ride. We nearly got our heads taken off by overhanging branches as we charged through the jungle after rhino. Entertaining, as we got to chase rhinos, and Richard got to be driver on the way back and sit on the elephant's shoulders. It took a while after getting down to return to walking normally. We all have our souvenir bruises.